Emily in India

On August 24, I took my first domestic flight in India to “Trichy” in the nearby state of Tamil Nadu. Flying Indigo airline was great – no frills much like Southwest. Easy on, easy off, and CHEAP. I stayed at a Courtyard Marriott – one of the nicest I’ve ever been to. Had “Scooby doo chicken nuggets” for dinner and called it a night.

Early on Friday the 25th, I started a day-long local tour. We took a drive – long and beautiful – to Chettinadu where I met the tour guide for the day. We walked the streets of a neighborhood and got to tour some of the mansions. Built hundreds of years ago to house large families, they are still inhabited by families and friends.

Quick drive to Karaikudi to see some beautiful, ancient temples and local artisans. We stopped at a local sweets shop where I met a room full of women making handmade sweet treats. I’ve never seen anything like it – huge bowls of flour, various groups throughout the room, each with their own designated step in the process. After a proper Chettinad lunch (on palm leaves), we went to what turned out to be my favorite spot of the weekend – a mansion in the tile-making district. This home was exquisite. Handmade tiles covered every inch – all intricately painted or molded. I honestly do not have the words to give you a decent picture of this mansion but I could’ve spent all day there. It was absolutely stunning. From there, we went to a local tile maker and watched 2 men and 1 woman make handmade tiles. It was so cool to see the process. No machines, no fancy tools or equipment. Just each person cranking out 250 handmade tiles every day.

We stopped by a local museum, the House of 1,000 windows, and some beautiful temples. At the last temple, the guide to me that I wasn’t allowed on one side because that’s where the only single god was. Women of fertile age are not allowed there because we might tempt him.

On Saturday August 26th, with a new tour guide (a woman this time!), I toured 3 temples from the Chola dynasty. One built by father, one built by son, and one built by grandson in the 1000’s. It is hard to describe or even wrap my mind around the size of these temples and the details in the construction and carvings. It is unfathomable as to how, that many years ago, these temples were constructed. We made our way to Thanjavur where I had the pleasure of seeing a very old man weave a silk sari. Again, the details, the intracity, I can’t put it into words but I did buy my first sari! Then we went to Thanjavur Maratha Palace, library, and museum. More stunning architecture, history, colors, carvings, etc.

We stopped to meet local artisans – 9th generation, family operation of bronze statue makers. I got to see the “lost wax method” which is a many-step process in creating molds for the statues by pouring wax into the sandy ground and covering until cooled. The shop had some of the most beautiful and intricate artwork I’ve ever seen. I was lucky to meet the artist herself, the wife of one of the statue makers. They were lovely.

On Sunday the 27th, I slept in and started a little tour of Trichy itself. I went to the largest Shiva temple in India where I offended a local man, an engineer, who shared stories and history with me while I walked. Near the end, I offered him some money and boy was he upset. He said “No no, don’t do that!!” and walked off angrily. I was stunned and so embarrassed. I now understand that he truly enjoyed sharing information with foreigners and was not looking to get paid. I took a long hike up to the Rock Temple (a temple built in and on a huge mountain rock) which gave beautiful panoramic views of the colorful city. The last stop before flying back to Bengaluru was Our Lady of Lourdes Church in Trichy. A stunning, gothic-style church. By then, I was tired of taking off my shoes so I didn’t go inside. I took a tuktuk/ rickshaw/ “auto” for the first time – so fun! The breeze was refreshing.

To fly back to Bengaluru, I was mocked by airport security for the gifts I had purchased (the weight was suspicious). After landing in Bengaluru, I boarded an airport bus from the tarmac to the terminal and behind me sat a man who lifted is leg and audibly farted.